A Look Inside (Literally, Inside) our FW16 Collection
by Emily DeLong
06 February 2017
One of the biggest drawbacks to selling things online is not being able to let you see and touch things before you you buy them. I go on and on about how ethereally soft the lining fabric we use in our dresses and skirts is, and how neat and clean our seam finishes are, but those are the kinds of things that would be so much easier to show you rather than tell you.
Another thing that's tough about selling things online is being able to accurately convey what sets apart a Margu garment from any other garment, and a lot of that is about what's on the inside. I've long been a proponent of making garments that are just as beautiful inside as they are on the outside — it makes a piece of clothing extra special, even if no one besides you sees it.
That said, I wrote this blog post to show you what you can't see online, something I've been wanting to show you: the insides of the pieces in our FW16 collection.
This first photo is of the Wallflower Dress in Midnight Floral. Besides the tag being a little crooked (this dress is actually a sample I took for myself!), you can see that it's lined in our beautiful hand-dyed Almost Black silk crepe de Chine fabric, which is used as the main fabric for a few of the other pieces in the collection.
This image is of that same Wallflower Dress. I lifted up the edge of the wrap part of the dress to show you how the lining is attached. I left the lining loose and flowy on the skirt, but I started it an inch or so from the side of the main fabric so there's no risk of black fabric poking out if you do a little twirl.
From this photo you can also see the beautiful vintage mother of pearl button used to hold the dress together. Usually this button is covered by the waist tie, so I wanted to find an excuse to show it off!
This photo is of the inside of the Tuesday Dress in Mist Dot. Our Mist Dot fabric is made up of 100% organic cotton double gauze, and the lining of this dress is also made up of a different 100% organic cotton double gauze that I hand-dyed a shade of very light grey. The double-double gauze makes this dress super soft and cozy, but because of the weave it is quite breathable as well.
Here's a closeup of the collar of the dress. I wish I could describe how unimaginably soft the fabric is!
And here's a photo of the inside of the button placket.
This image is of something near and dear to my heart: pockets! I talk about pockets all the time, but rarely do I ever get to show them to you. This is the pocket of the Tuesday Dress, were you to stick your hand in the pocket and turn it inside out. I made it a little bigger than normal (but not too big!) in order to fit a large object like a phone or wallet without it falling out.
Here's that same pocket, but from the inside. So nice and clean-looking, right? I'm a bit obsessed with making the insides of garments neat, so I end up French seaming just about everything I can.
Here's another pocket from the inside — this one is of the Gemma Dress in Mulberry Twill.
Here's a super close-up of that same pocket. If you look closely, you can see the stitching for the patch pocket underneath the other pocket!
Now we'll move on to tags. There is nothing to me like sewing a tag into a garment; it feels somehow so special and so sacred. For most garments, I'll sew around the tag in a rectangle, but for garments where doing that would show on the outside (eww), I'll fold it into a little boat and set it into the neck binding. That one is of the Delphine Top in Dusty Rose.
Here's another boat tag, this time on the Delphine Top in Black Grid. Notice how the neckhole binding is at a criss-cross diagonal? That's because it's made of bias tape! I make all our bias tape out of fabric scraps (waste not!) and use it for everything from binding neckholes and armholes to finishing raw edges.
Here's what the bias-tape-bound armhole on the inside of the Calla Top in Ivory Plaid looks like. I love how bias tape adds visual interest while being super functional at the same time.
Here's another shot of that Calla Top. This one is of the inside of the side seam. Rather than doing a French seam like I usually do, I folded the seam allowances in on themselves and sewed them down all the way from the armhole to the hem. (Also note that fabric tag: the tiny bit of wild silk in this handloom fabric makes it so sumptuous!)
I mentioned above that French seams are what I usually use for most seams, and this image of the Delphine Top in Dusty Rose is a good example of that. Here you can see the French seam on the inside of the side seam (on the right) leading up to the French seam connecting the sleeve to the body of the garment (on the left). Too many French seams? I think not!
Here's another French seam (I promise I'll stop soon), this time on the Delphine Top in Midnight Floral. The French seam on the side of the shirt goes right down until it hits the hem at the bottom.
OK, this is my last French seam picture, promise! Here's the inside of the ruffle sleeve of the Delphine Top; I connected the ruffle to the sleeve with — you guessed it — a French seam.
If you're wondering why I'm so intent on using French seams, the answer is twofold:
- French seams are a lot stronger than conventionally serged seams because they are essentially sewn twice. Stronger seams = a garment that's going to last longer.
- French seams are so much more attractive than conventionally serged seams!
Can you guess what this one is?
It's the blind hem on the bottom of the Henri Pants in Mulberry Twill. That's what it looks like from the outside ...
... and this is what it looks like on the inside! The zig-zags are fun, aren't they?
Here's another shot of the Henri Pants, this time of the inside of the back. Rather than serging the main seat seam, I opted to bind the edges with some bias tape. I love how those two fabrics go together!
This is another picture of the inside of the Henri pants. I challenged myself to make a pair of pants without serging anything, and I succeeded!
This is a picture of the inside of the front of the Henri Pants.
Another picture of the front of the Henri Pants. You can see the zipper poking out, can't you?
And there's the zipper in much clearer view. Sewing these pants — and (most) everything, really! — is a lot of fun.